Sunday, September 27, 2015

A Southern African Journey


Africa is a gorgeous country. It is a country of diverse landscapes, gorgeous vistas, interesting culture, and amazing people. And this "winter", we had the opportunity to experience South Africa's gifts by taking a trip along its Western Cape. 

After traveling to our respective homes and enjoying a fabulous Northern hemisphere summer, we flew back home to Johannesburg and arrived to a chilly winter. After a quick 12 hour turn-around, our own family holiday got us back in a plane heading towards the famous Garden Route. After a short flight to George, we drove to Knysna and started our adventure on Houseboat Myrtle in the Knysna Lagoon. This was an exciting challenge for all of us as we maneuvered our dinghy to our Houseboat, converted dining tables in to sleeping spaces, and learned how pitch water out of our dinghy after the nightly downpours.

On our first full day at the coast, we drove through the rain to get to the coastal town of Sedgefield hearing that their Wild Oat's Community Market was not to be missed. Boy were they right! The ambiance was charming and breakfast was spectacular. The kids noshed on morning burritos, Nutella waffles, and hot cocoa, while Rob and I tried a variety of coffees and teas and a menagerie of baked goods. Unfortunately, the winter weather pounced and we had to dodge puddles to drop off our purchases in the rental car. But just as we were readying ourselves for departure, we saw a sign for the Sedgefield Craft Brewery. Well... we just had to go! We met the proprietor, a former techie from Joburg, who chatted with Rob over a pint (or two or three) of his delicious brews which helped Rob's retirement dream grow.  

The next day, we drove west through the bright yellow canola fields on our quest to reach the 4th oldest village in all of South Africa--Swellendam. On our long journey, we stopped at nearly every ocean vista, Trip Advisor recommend locale, or any interesting farm stall we passed on the ride. Arriving in Swellendam, we were not expecting to see a city bursting at the seams with gorgeous Cape Dutch architecture, it was as if we had stepped back in time... and to Holland! Swellendam, particularly our host, Karin, are full of stories desperate to be told. Families that have lived, worked, farmed, and created in this area for generations! Despite a strong desire to stay at the Old Thatch Guest House even longer, the siren call of the whales was beckoning.

On our way to Hermanus, we made a detour at Cape Agulhas. Though not as famous as The Cape of Good Hope (where the currents of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet), Cape Agulhas is the true southernmost tip of Africa. This location serves as the division of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. With little to see, but a dangerously rocky coastline, the recently manicured trail was full of educational vignettes and brilliant flora.

Within a few hours... we had reached our destination: Hermanus. This small seaside retreat is famous for it's whale watching (which is at its peak between June and December). From the cliffs at the village square, the loud trumpeting sounds of the Whale Crier can be heard. These morse-code like toots alert tourists to the whereabouts (and behavior) of whales just off shore. From our lazy walks through the cliff paths or lunch with a view, we could see whales spouting and breaching within a kilometer from shore.

Despite all the fun and adventures we had had up to this point, the highlight (and Xavier's 12th birthday gift) was our whale watching trip. We woke up before the sun and drove to the Old Harbor. After a brief training and some warm beverages, we  boarded the boat and made our way through violently choppy waters. For just over 30 minutes we were meters away from the Souther Right Whales. Because of their curious nature and the ease at which they could be hunted, the "right" whale were just the "right" ones to be hunted. These gentle giants came within meters of our boat just to investigate.

While enjoying our water safari, the choppy waters took their toll on one of the Langlands foursome. Angela realized that she is not destined to live at sea when her face turned green, the sweat beaded around her brow, and she was down for the count--literally!

From the golden farms and fields inland to the gorgeous crashing waves at the shoreline--South Africa's bounty is rich and we have enjoyed exploring it all! But our home, our puppy dog, and a nice fire were enticing. It was time to get back to Johannesburg.













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