a lot of catching up to do...

written on September 26...

No excuses. I haven't blogged in way too long. Though I'm sick (with what they call the Kuwaiti crud), tired, and distracted by the lazy life that exists during Ramadan, I have no excuses for my tardiness.

So let me start at the beginning.

Ramadan: It's the time of year that Muslims honor the Qur'an being revealed to the prophet Mohammed. This always occurs during the ninth month (of the Islamic calendar) and is determined by the cycle of the new moon. During Ramadan, Muslims are diligent about praying and fast during the daylight hours. The idea is that fasting will teach people to be patient, cooperation, humility, and sacrifice. It is the job of Muslims to seek forgiveness for past sins and work towards good deeds in the present. What this really means is--life stops for a whole month!  Schools and business open late, close early, then open after Iftar and life begins at 8pm. 

Our take on Ramadan: Rob and I are so done with Ramadan. By the time we are home from school, stores are closed. You can't get any work done between 3.00 and 7.30 pm. And since our kids are asleep by 8.00, we're in a lot! We can't wait for Eid (the celebration that marks the end of Ramadan) because life should get back to normal. That means, grocery shopping and errands during the day. Drinking water or grabbing a snack during the day is OK. Just three more days!

Gurgiyan: a children's celebration to mark the halfway point of Ramadan. Kids dress up in ethnic costumes (mostly Arabic) and knock on people's door (much like our Halloween). In lieu of "trick-of-treat" children sing a little Arabic tune which earns them sweet treats. In America, "trick-or-treat" earns a couple bite-size Snickers or a set of jelly vampire teeth. Here, a Gurgiyan song earns you a bag full of candy. 

Our take on Gurgiyan: With a few girlfriends in toe, we spent the weekend before the big day going Gurgiyan dress shopping. This was harder than we expected because Gurgiyan is really just a kids day. But, when you're a teacher, it's kind of expected that you participate. Xavier's dishdasha (the long, white men's robe that is matched with a variety of scarf-like head dresses, held to the head by a black band) and Anouk's dress (which has a name that I cannot remember) were easy to find. 

Gurgiyan is the total opposite of Ramadan. It's full of indulgence and abundance--which all take form as little sweets. Yes, CANDY! Holy crap. I've never seen this much candy in my life. I think our little threesome (Xavier, Anouk, and I--since Rob is part of the high school and they don't celebrate) brought home over 4 lbs. of candy. After unwrapping toys, gifts, treasure boxes, and candy, I kept a stash for the kids and returned copious amounts to our respective classrooms as student rewards after Ramadan.

 The one aspect to keep from  Gurgiyan is the costuming. Kids dress in ethnic clothing (mostly Arabic) and look adorable. In addition, we adults get to learn a lot about the costuming from different Arab states, so it's a lesson for me too!

Iftar: During Ramadan, iftar is the time of night when a family meets together to break their fast. Iftar occurs after the Maghrib (sunset) prayers (and for us non-Muslims are irrerevrently referred to as the "call to eat" prayers).  As the prayers begin, families all over the Arab world break fast with a date (or two) and a drink of water. The families then make their way to the mosque for their Maghrib prayers (the fourth set of prayers for the day). Once this is completed, the iftar begins and families begin their evening feast which often lasts for hours. Because people have not eaten all day, their stomach's cannot handle much food. For this reason, most iftar celebrations include a lavish display of food and is eaten into the wee hours of the morning.

Our take on Iftar: Our school holds a fancy iftar dinner at a hotel every year. We couldn't make it because we were a family full of sickies. So I was incredibly excited when an Arabic and Islamic teacher, at the school, personally invited me to the Religion staff's iftar at our school. As I walked up to the high school canteen area (an area near our school's indoor gym and the school mosque), the ceiling was lined with student-made lanterns (or fanous as they are called in Arabic) and a table was all laid with beautiful colored papers, bowls of dates, and glasses of water. About a hundred students, teachers, and parents milled around this table waiting to hear the Maghrib. As the prayers rang loud from the distance, the mass flocked swiftly to the table to grab a date and a glass of water. I was stunned how gentle everyone was. After two or three dates, the group migrated to the mosque while us non-Muslims quietly waited for the iftar to begin. 

About 10 minutes later, the Muslim group returned from the mosque and the iftar began with a decadent display of food. The food was amazing. The most delicious chicken in a mildly spicy gravy with spices I've never heard of or tasted before was my favorite (but since then, I've since forgotten the name of the chicken loveliness). This and about 10 other beautiful meat dishes were complimented with at least 50 sides: from salads to breads, rice dishes to cold vegetable platters-- it was a feast for sure.

The iftar was followed by a lecture, in the school's mosque, by a world-renowned theologian. The lecture was intended to educate people on the holy month of Ramadan but quickly evolved into a comparison between Judaism, Christianity, and Islam (with a strong focus on the latter as superior). It was interesting though a little preachy. 

The most interesting thing he said, in a way of discussing radicals like Osama bin Laden, was that there is a distinct difference between Arabs and Muslims. He said that most Muslims are just Muslims because their parents are. This theologian called this type of Muslim: an Arab. He said that Islam is a chosen religion and you must believe and practice the religion, which, in it's simplest form is a religion based on love, respect, and cleanliness (of body and soul). He said Arabs fight, are disrespectful to others, and do not keep themselves or their communities clean. He said that when he walks around Kuwait (and even our school) he notices more Arabs than Muslims. 

So that's it. That's what we've been up to during the holy month. Not much, but a lot of cultural learning has happened. My next post will be soon... inshallah (god willing). Inshallah is how everything gets done here: "your apartment will be ready soon [pregnant pause], inshallah." "This medicine should make you better [a brief pause], inshallah." "Your civil ID will be here by the end of the week [giggle, giggle], inshallah."

So again... my next post will be soon [with a little grimmace] inshallah.

Heck Yeah!

Ok, I guess it's about time for me to put in my 5 fils (2 cents) worth. I can't believe my 3 and 5 year old kids posted stuff on here before I did, but then again, I don't have a secretary to do my typing for me. Here's my digest of our first three weeks in Kuwait. I won't bore you with the same stuff you've already heard about, instead I'll give you the  stories you won't hear anywhere else.

I have to start with a big kudo to Xavier and Anouk, I still can't believe how well they did on the way over here. Once we got to the airport though, we started experiencing Kuwait. Our first little adventure was a trip to the bathroom where Xavi had to go #2. Didn't seem like a big deal until I opened the door to the stall: a squatting toilet. Xavier had no idea what he was supposed to do and I'm sure if you would have taped our antics we would have been an instant hit on youtube. Unfortunately everything didn't go as planned so we needed a change of underwear. After finding Angela and some clean undies we headed back to the restrooms to change. This time we opened a different stall and you guessed it: it was equipped with a regular toilet, the kind we all know and love.

Xavier pulled another fast one on us today as we were coming home from school. We were going up in the elevator with one of our colleagues. Xavier was very polite and asked him what his name was, which was Mr. Powers. When we got off on our floor we asked Xavi to say goodbye to Mr. Powers so just as the door is closing he proceeds to say (loudly): bye Mr. Grumpy! It was definitely one of those surreal should we laugh or should we cry moments, so we quickly went inside and laughed.

Anouk is also her little self, although she now claims to be shy all the time (something she picked up from Xavi). She's obviously not shy though since all the teachers in preschool already knew her by the end of the first week, and her teacher told me after her second day of school that Anouk is very expressive and had no problems "sharing" her opinion. I tried to apologize for Anouk's motor mouth but her teacher proceeded to tell me that she loves it. We'll see how long that lasts.

That's it for now. I wanted to post some pictures of my first photojournalistic essay: "who am I, a journey of self discovery through pictures", but we lost our card reader so you'll have to wait a little longer.  Until next time, ma as-salaamah,

Robert

it's every girls dream!

(written 9/6, but due to the temporary loss of our card reader, no pictures could be uploaded, hence, no blog)

... to own an antique camel saddle? Not really, but then again, I'm not every girl! A group of ladies escorted a few of us newbies to Gloria's shop. Gloria is a British woman who has spent the last 25 years living in Kuwait and purchasing, reconstructing, and refurbishing Arabic and Indian antiques. I have met an angel here in Kuwait. And her name is Gloria.

As I was perusing amazing tables, dressers, frames, mirrors, and chairs, I walked by this bizarre looking item propped in the corner of the room. I passed by it. Touched it. Was awed by it. And dismissed it as an odd prop. But as I moved through the rooms and could see this odd decoration from the corner of my eye--I became more intrigued by it. What the heck is it? What would you use it for? Why is it here?

I passed from room to room, upstairs and downstairs, inside and out, and yet forces kept pulling me towards it. So I finally found the label, read it, and found out that this peculiar item was an antique camel saddle. Though I couldn't imagine how I would justify the purchase to Rob, or concoct a reasonable use for it. I couldn't imagine leaving without it. 

So I didn't!

And now, I am the proud owner of an antique camel saddle with little to no purpose whatsoever. So if you are so inclined, drop me a line with your suggestions. How would you use such a useless item? (keep in mind, it has been leaning in the corner in an upright position and another one was in the bathroom at Gloria's store and was used as a towel rack).

they say it's your birthday...

... and finally, Xavier's birthday was once again celebrated in the same time zone he celebrated his birthday. It was very exciting (and very reminiscent). Poor little Xavi had only been in school for 4 days when his birthday arrived, so a party with long-time friends was certainly out of the question. So we came to a compromise--a cookie and milk bash for friends in class followed by a small family dinner (at home, since it's Ramadan and we can't eat out before sunset), and then ice cream with a few new friends. But when I brought the idea to the mom of one of his friends (she and her husband have been here for a year in their second tour to Kuwait) she wasn't having any of it! The party would be at her house and she wouldn't take no for an answer.

Before departure, Xavier received happy birthday calls from multiple continents with kisses and hugs from grandparents and friends. Then, at 6.30 on Thursday night, we made our way through the 87% humidity to their overly air conditioned house with ice cream and sundae fixings. By the end of the night, Xavier had accrued a slew of new toys for his room, had heard "the birthday song" 6 times in 3 different languages, and was happy that he was 5 and could start learning to read.

Though it wasn't the typical Angela-created birthday party--it was wonderful to see his joy.

from the mouths of babes...

-from Xavier

My first day of school was good and I was so naughty because I was not relaxing and I talked at Papa's school. On my first day of school I made friends, but I don't remember his name. Joseph is my new friend. I didn't know how to read yet. I like my school because I make a lot of friends and I play on the playground. I was going up the pole. I raced the bikes like zoooom. And the the other guy was going slow and I went swooosh and went faster than him. Now I am done, Mama.

-from Anouk

Mama, school is good. And today, when my teacher came another teacher came and then my teacher came again. And I had two teachers and it was good. At school we play. We play with toys and friends and that's it. I forgot what else we do. We play at the playground  and the it rains because it is hot when I play too much. In the big boy area it rains a lot but we play at the small kid area sometime. We play at the big kid area too. Now our new home in Kuwait is good. Our good home is good that I love the school that we love. I eat snack at my school and it is yummy because I like crackers. And also, the crackers have names. Like, uh, and they also have chocolate milk like Starbucks. Isn't that cool mama? It's like Starbucks. Hey Mama, my day was good.

-from Mama

Looks like they really had a great first (and second) day of school. Xavier is bummed that they haven't taught him how to read yet, but that will come. He actually has been moved into a class with more western kids so when the students are taken out for Arabic and Religion (Kuwaiti mandated classes), he isn't the only one that doesn't attend. Anouk likes the rain at playground which refers to misters that cool them while they play outside. I know that they are happy because conversation has changed from "when are we going back to Fremont?" to "when we visit Fremont." School is cool on all counts.

a little R & R

written August 26, 2008

This week has been incredibly hectic. As an elementary teacher, I have moved from inservice to inservice without so much as a minute to get into my room to get cracking. Don't get me wrong, I now know my curriculum and I know about my "units of inquiry" or our PYP program (an amazing curriculum that is part of the International Baccalaureate program known around the world for high school), and I know about Kuwaiti ministry censorship laws, rules, and how copyright is a loose term in this country. I know all of this stuff now. But I don't know what I'm going to do with the kids next week. We hired a trial nanny and the kids would run from her. I don't know how I'm going to run my classroom because I haven't had a minute to work on it. And I don't know why the heck I'm taking time away from being in my classroom to go on this stupid "go-see" at Al Cornich Club and Spa because there's no way we can afford it!

A few teachers belong to this club because it's close to the school apartments, is lovely, and has all the amenities one could want in a desert country. One such staff member worked out a deal that we could take a spinning class, go on a tour of the facility, and then have free run of the place for 4 hours as we considered joining the club. Well... Rob, the kids, and I got there and we were hooked--the pool is amazing, the facilities are top notch, and the club owns 300 meters of pristine (and private) Kuwaiti beach line (which means... you have 300 meters to wear western bathing suits on the beach--woo hoo! ladies). The kids took to the water like only little fish can and I knew that the terrible time was coming that we had to decline to enroll and hide our heads as we left the Corniche in sadness because lovely is just so out of our price range right now. And so came money time...

The club manager sat down with the visiting teachers and began on the deal. And how Xavier, though only a week before his 5th birthday would fall under the loophole that would make him a free member for a year. After much him-hawing back and forth, Rob gave us the all clear.

So now, we are the newest members of Al Corniche--an exclusive haven where you are not allowed to talk shop. Where, instead, you must only spend time working out at the gym, basking in the sun, floating in the water, or looking over the Gulf.

We have found an oasis here in Kuwait and it's called: "Al Corniche!"